Darrell Stone

dasmero@pacific.net.au

Bicycle Touring in Eastern Australia

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War Birds

Updated 08/04/2012

 

I did this trip during March/April 2010.  Part of its purpose was to re-visit the aviation museums in Temora and Nowra, with the rest just being an opportunity to see some of the places that I've not seen or that I had liked previously, but not been to for a while.

Climate

The following climate statistics are for Braidwood.  For more information on this location, including wind roses, go to "Climate Statistics for Australian Locations" on the Links page.  You can also obtain similar details from other locations enroute from that site.

  Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Av Max Temp oC 26 25 23 19 16 13 12 13 16 19 22 25
Av Min Temp oC 12 13 11 7 4 1 0 1 3 6 9 11
Av Rain mm 68 66 74 57 60 72 62 56 53 63 64 65
Av days of rain ≥ 1 mm 5 5 5 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

 


Itinerary
Towns listed below that have distances marked ( ) are those where food/drink is expected/known and those marked [ ] are points of interest.  (b) indicates that there is a bike shop in this vicinity.


Getting there
 

We caught an early morning train from Newcastle to Muswellbrook.  CityRail timetables can be accessed through Links.


Day 1 - Muswellbrook - Bengalla - Sandy Hollow
 
46 kms 550 m climbed

We took this circuitous route to Sandy Hollow on the advice of the Muswellbrook Visitor Information Centre.  The original plan had been to take the Wybong Road direct from Muswellbrook to Sandy Hollow, however, there is significant mining expansion occurring along that road and there had been a number of accidents/fatalities so it was considered that this route is unsafe for the time being.  Attempts are being made to get the road upgraded, but if you are considering this route, I'd suggest that you obtain an update from the VIC before your trip.

Take the off road cycleway in Muswellbrook to ride through the railway underpass as there is nowhere to go when the trucks want the road.  The traffic for the few kilometres south of Muswellbrook can be busy, but once on Bengalla Rd, it is relatively quiet with a good surface.

I had reservations about riding the Golden Highway from my past experiences of it being busy with lots of trucks, variable shoulders, etc.  However, we rode it on a Tuesday and it seemed OK in a westerly direction, and the shoulders may have been better than the eastbound ones.

Sandy Hollow has a pub and general store/takeaway/fuel store.  There was also a coffee shop, but it wasn't open when we were there.  We camped at Sandy Hollow Caravan Park, Golden Hwy.  It had a stove, bbq, microwave oven, communal fridge and under cover tables and chairs.


Day 2 - Sandy Hollow - Baerami [15] - Bylong
64 kms 740 m climbed
There are no food stops along the way until the small general store/takeaway/liquor supply/fuel supply at Bylong, although, water may be available behind the hall at Baerami.

The steep climb at about 40kms was ridden by my travel companion, but I walked it.  The road, while not busy, did have regular traffic, but we enjoyed its varied scenery, and watched for the ever lengthening coal trains travelling to/from the port of Newcastle.

Bylong has its annual mouse races late in March, so if you are planning the trip around that time, it may be worthwhile to join the thousands that flock to this village for the event.  We camped at the showground which has showers and toilets as well as under cover tables and chairs.  Check at the store and make your donation there for the camp fee.  You will also hear coal trains travelling through the night.


Day 3 - Bylong - Wollar (28) - Cooyal (52) - Home Rule [67] - Gulgong
 
80 kms 850 m climbed
This road has sections of bitumen to Wollar, but about 20kms of the road is still variable gravel.  Wollar has a general store/limited takeaways/fuel/workshop.  The pub at Cooyal has an extensive lunch menu and was a welcome rest stop for lunch.

Gulgong is a town with most facilities, and has many buildings of historic significance.  It is worthwhile spending some time in the museum, as well as wandering around the town.  We camped at Henry Lawson Caravan Park, Mayne St, which is about 1.5kms NW of the town, so it is worthwhile collecting all of your shopping needs before proceeding to the park.  As there are no food supplies for the next day until Wellington, it would be wise to ensure that you have enough to get you through to there.  The caravan park has a bbq and under cover tables and chairs.  There is also a kitchen with a communal fridge and stove located adjacent to the shelter, but it was not open at the time that we were there.


Day 4 - Gulgong - Spicers Creek - Bodangora - Wellington
 
71 kms 570 m climbed
At this time of year, the locusts were becoming a nuisance, and at various times during the next few days, as they flew higher it was necessary to keep one's mouth closed to avoid some unwanted protein.  Apart from the locusts, there is no food or water until Wellington.

Wellington is a large regional town with all services.  The Wellington Riverside Caravan Park, 1 Federal St is before the town and about 2kms from the centre of town.  I pitched camp and then rode in and did my shopping.  The camping area has a large under cover area with bbq's, tables and chairs, as well as mosquitoes.  The western railway line is to the northern side of the park, so there will be the occasional train pass through.


Day 5 - Wellington - Yeoval (42) - Cumnock (66) - Molong
 
90 kms 840 m climbed
Yeoval and Cumnock are both small towns, with Yeoval being the bigger of the two.  The locals warned me not to drink the local water unless it was tank water, as all piped water is from bores.  Be on the look out in the paddocks for the various "bicycles" that have been placed/built by the locals.

Molong is a reasonably sized town and deserves a wander around.  I camped at Molong Caravan Park, cnr Watson/Hill St.  It was a short walk via an alleyway to the shopping centre.  The camp had a large covered area with a sink, bbq's and tables and chairs.  The park was also adjacent to a busy road that was used by a lot of trucks, so it tended to be a bit noisy.


Day 6 - Molong - Manildra (22) - Canowindra
 
73 kms 510 m climbed
Manildra is a small town that is dominated by its flour mill.  It has a nice coffee shop opposite the local park.  Beyond the town, after a few kilometres the road becomes gravel for about the next 15kms.  It was variable, and the countryside was undulating farmlands.

Canowindra is a large town with all services.  I camped at the small Canowindra Caravan Park, Tilga St which is at the southern end of the town.  The park had an under cover bbq, sink and table and chairs.  It is only short walk up to the shopping centre and it is well worth a wander through the streets to see the old buildings.  I felt that it was a town that had some real character.


Day 7 - Canowindra - Gooloogong (30) - Grenfell
 
76 kms 390 m climbed
The ride into Gooloogong involves crossing a long pick-a-plank bridge.  If my memory serves me correctly, I walked it as the gaps were variable and of the wheel grabbing variety.  Gooloogong is a small town with a number of shops, including a general store.  The only pub has shown some initiative and opens a coffee shop for morning passing trade.  I was able to get a light snack there too.  Gooloogong also has a small basic camping area with one star shower and toilets.

Grenfell is a large town with many old shops that give it a rustic appeal.  As the camp at Grenfell Caravan Park, 12 Grafton St is 1.5kms west of town, it would be best to replenish supplies on the way through the town, particularly as there are no food/water stops on the next day's ride.  The park has a bbq and under cover table and chairs.


Day 8 - Grenfell - Bribbaree - Temora
 
104 kms 260 m climbed
This day's ride is over relatively flat country and consequently can be a tough day with even a light headwind, so I recommend carrying extra water, particularly if the weather is warm.  There is a short 10km gravel section that starts at about 57kms.

Temora is a large town and its Aviation Museum is a major drawcard for many visitors.  The aircraft on display are all flown regularly and the museum conducts regular flying days that draw many visitors from around the country.  At Easter, and other times of the year they may also host other flying events, so it is worthwhile checking beforehand as accommodation may be a problem.  There is a camping area at the airfield, but I stayed at Temora Caravan Park, 19 Junee Rd on the southern side of town.  The park has tables and chairs, as well as a bbq.  It is a short walk to the shops and I would recommend the bakery at the roundabout for a good feed and coffee. 


Day 9 - Temora - Ariah Park (36) - Ardlethan
 
72 kms 260 m climbed
The next two days riding were over very flat countryside, and if I was travelling this way again, I would change the route to go from Temora to Coolamon via Junee.

Having said that, Ariah Park is an old town that places a lot of significance in its history.  It was Good Friday when I did this day's ride, so there was nothing at all open in either Ariah Park or Ardlethan.  There is a lovely park in Ardlethan, and the council has plans to re-locate the camping area to one end of it.  The current Ardlethan Caravan Park on Stewart St is very basic and is about 1km from the shops.


Day 10 - Ardlethan - Coolamon
 
63 kms 160 m climbed

I slogged into a light headwind on this day's ride over very flat country.  It was my last day encountering the locust plague which was worsening around the State.  There is nothing of note in between the two towns.  I found Coolamon to be a charming town with all facilities.  Shortly after I arrived on Easter Saturday, dozens of vintage, veteran, classic and historic cars descended on the town for a few hours.  What a great day!  Enthusiasts were everywhere.  The cars had been lovingly restored and polished by the owners, who would proudly talk of the work done restoring and maintaining their car.

The keys for the camping area should be obtained from the newsagent in the main street before going to the Coolamon Caravan Park in Bruce St, unless you don't mind a short walk back to the main street.  There were bbq's and table and chairs under cover in the park adjacent to the camping area.


Day 11 - Coolamon - Wagga Wagga (b)
 
41 kms 210 m climbed
I awoke to the sound of a strong easterly wind blowing through the trees.  It had been busy overnight blowing the tumbling grass stalks everywhere.  As I headed out along the road, there were walls of these grass stalks formed across the road and on the verges, and some were 1-2 metres high.  I had never seen anything like this before.

This was a short day with a few ups and downs to get to Wagga Wagga.  After about 33kms riding, I found the signage at the roundabout at the intersection of the Olympic Highway confusing and did some unnecessary detours.  Ride straight across it and take the road to North Wagga Wagga.  Almost immediately after the roundabout the road does a dogleg and runs parallel with the Olympic Highway for about a kilometre or so, and then it is plain sailing into Wagga Wagga.  It is a large regional centre with all facilities. 

I rolled into town and met a couple of local cyclists in a coffee shop, and on their advice I re-routed my next day's riding to Tumut, and that was a good move.  They advised me not to ride over grass or on the road shoulders and to remain on the bitumen at all times as the cats heads (grass seeds with long barbs that penetrate tyres) were particularly bad at this time.

I camped at Wagga Wagga Beach Caravan Park, 2 Johnston St - an easy 500m walk to the main street or the Visitors Information Centre.  The park had a camp kitchen with a stove, microwave, communal fridge, sink and under cover tables and chairs.


Day 12 - Wagga Wagga - Wantabadgery (38) - Tumblong (68) - Adelong (88) - Tumut (b)
 
109 kms 880 m climbed
After an early start along this revised route, the high volume/speed trade vehicles and trucks dwindled to a comfortable level after about the first 5kms or so.  Although this was a long day's ride, it was quite an enjoyable trip through some varied countryside and with a few small hills along the way to give some opportunities to change cadence/gears and have a bit of a rest while rolling down the gentle inclines.  If circumstances arise in the future, I would take this route again.

The first village of interest was Wantabadgery, where the general store was open while the owners were awake.  I got a drink there and they had limited supplies.  It was on a corner and proved to be a comfortable rest stop for me.

The next village enroute was Tumblong.  It had a number of homes and some other businesses, but the only place for food and drink - the Tumblong Tavern - did not open until 3pm.  However, I made use of its covered outside tables and chairs.

Adelong is town with most facilities.  I found the ride from Tumblong to Adelong quite enjoyable.   It was frustrating seeing the decaying Tumblong-Tumut-Batlow railway snaking its way gently up the hillsides and realising what a great rail trail opportunity it would provide if the will to do so prevailed.

The 20kms or so from Adelong to Tumut initially involves a steepish climb for the first few kilometres, and the road was busy with heavy trucks.  My recollection of the road is that the shoulder was OK, and the trucks showed courtesy.  The downhill towards Tumut made the ride easier too.

Tumut is a nice town with all facilities and I enjoyed my couple of days stay there.  I camped at Riverglade Caravan Park on a bend of the Snowy Mtns Hwy about 1km west of the main part of the town.  It seems to be a popular park, so accommodation may be difficult in season.  The park had a very good covered kitchen with a gas stove, bbq's, microwave, communal fridge, sink, tables and chairs.

There are no food stops until Yass, so it is wise to replenish your supplies in Tumut.  Water at Wee Jasper may also be a problem, so I carried an extra supply for the next 2 days ride.


Day 13 - Tumut - Wee Jasper
 
62 kms 1,200 m climbed

I was advised by the local Visitor Information Centre to take the Tumut-Wee Jasper Rd all of the way to Wee Jasper as it had very few logging trucks using it.  The bitumen turns to variable gravel after about 10kms.  There are a few patches of bitumen along the way, but most of it is gravel.  There are also a number of pick-a-plank bridges too.  I found the gravel to be generally OK until about the 45km mark where the road starts the descent to Wee Jasper.  From there it become hard work with a steep descent and trying to slow a fully laden bike over corrugations, ruts and a surface that ranged from fine to large lumps of gravel on a narrow winding road with some steep drop offs at the side.  I stopped frequently to give my arms a rest from applying the brakes and to cool down the rims.  I was relieved to arrive at the campsite having averaged a little under 12kph for the day's ride.

I camped at Billy Grace Reserve, about 4kms south of the village of Wee Jasper.  I believe that the only business now operating in the village is the Tavern, but it is not open every day, and there are other accommodation alternatives as well.  The camping area itself was quite pleasant and it had basic hot showers and toilets.  Water comes from the river and had to be boiled before drinking.  I believe that the water can be a problem when the river level is low.


Day 14 - Wee Jasper - Yass
60 kms 950 m climbed
The road to Yass had only one short section of gravel, however, it is not a wide road and I found the early morning traffic travelling into Yass was surprisingly heavy and fast.  There are some great vistas along the way - remember to look back to where you have come from.

Yass is a large town with all facilities.  I stayed at Yass Caravan Park, on the corner of Old Hume Hwy & Grampian St.  It was about 1km SW of the main shopping area, although there is also a large shopping centre just north of the caravan park.  The park had an under cover area with tables and chairs, sink and bbq.


Day 15 - Yass - Murrumbateman (21) - Hall (45) - Canberra (59) (b) - Queanbeyan (b)
 
76 kms 630 m climbed
I left Yass early on a Saturday morning.  I thought that the traffic would be light being on the weekend, but I was wrong.  The Barton Highway was busy all day, but it usually had a good road shoulder.  It was a welcome relieve to get off the highway and wheel into Hall for a coffee and some sustenance.

I found Canberra to be a bit of a navigational hurdle, but I was subsequently told that all footpaths are considered to be cycleways too, even if not marked as such.  I tried to ride on the cycleways adjacent to the main route or on the on-road cycleways, and generally things were OK.

Queanbeyan is an satellite city for Canberra with most of the usual facilities.  It seemed to have a high level of unemployed people.  I camped at Riverside Caravan Park, 41A Morrisset St, a short distance from the CBD.


Day 16 - Queanbeyan - Captains Flat (42) - Braidwood
 
93 kms 1,360 m climbed
The first 15kms of this route was busy, even early on a Saturday morning.  The rest of it was through pleasant countryside with about 20kms of good gravel after Captains Flat.  Apparently Captains Flat is a former copper, lead, and to a lesser extent, gold mining town.  Now it is a dormitory village for Queanbeyan and Canberra.  The little general store/post office/takeaway/fuel supply was a welcome rest place before the climb over the range to Braidwood.

Braidwood is a good sized town with most facilities - except a caravan park!  Every time that I've been there, the Showground has not been able to be used because of some bureaucratic barriers relating to the showers and toilets onsite.  Someone needs to lift their game, especially as they had been able to be used the week before when the town held its annual rodeo!  I stayed in a motel overnight and welcomed a soft bed.

It is wise to stock up here on supplies to take you through to Nowra.  Nerriga only has a hotel, which has limited snack food and meals only a couple of nights during the week.


Day 17 - Braidwood - Nerriga
 
51 kms 590 m climbed
There was about 20kms of variable gravel road on this route.  Some sections of the road were being worked on for tarring when I came through.

Nerriga has a village pub and about 20 or so houses.  The publican has been waiting for the last year or two to have his DA for on site cabins approved by the Braidwood Council.  There is a church with toilets nearby, but it is best to ask the locals whether it is OK to camp there overnight.  It can get cold here overnight.


Day 18 - Nerriga - Tianjara Falls [27] - Albatross (61) - Nowra (b)
 
73 kms 410 m climbed
I was all packed and ready to go at 7am, with the temperature being 2oC and a heavy blanket of fog covering.  I rode off to see how deep it was, but only got a couple of kilometres down the road before I decided that it was too dangerous to proceed.  I parked on the side of the road and waited for about two and a half hours until the temperature rose to about 12oC and the fog lifted.  It was a cold wait.

The Nerriga-Nowra road has been undergoing a substantial rebuild and bitumen surfacing since about 2006, and it will finally all be bitumen by about August 2010.  When I rode through, there was only about 16kms of gravel on the whole route.  There was large earthmoving equipment working extensively along it, and my bike and I were taken in the escort vehicle over the 20kms where work was taking place.  All traffic is escorted through the work area because of the danger to traffic and workers.  Unfortunately the descent towards Nowra did not seem as much downhill as the profile indicated, but I'm sure that it was there.  This will be a great ride when the road is completed.

The Tianjara Falls at 26kms are a short detour on the northern side of the road and are a nice place to stop for a rest, particularly if there has been recent rain and the falls are full.

I arrived at the Aviation Museum at RAN Albatross Base ready for a coffee and some lunch only to find that the cafe was closed until further notice.  In the short term, it had been replaced by vending machines for hot and cold drinks and snack food.  The museum had an interesting range of military aircraft on static display and it was well worth spending a few hours wandering around.  They ranged from World War I biplanes to the more recent jets and helicopters operated by RAN as well as others from both enemy and allied countries.

Nowra is a large town with all services.  It appears to have some unemployment issues with some of the population.  I camped about 1km east of the CBD alongside the river at Shoalhaven Caravan Village at 17 Terara Rd.  The park had bbq's and tables and chairs under cover.  I had considered a park closer to town, but the highway was busy and noisy, even at night.


Day 19 - Nowra - Coolangatta [15] - Gerroa (28) - Gerringong (32)  - train to Dunmore - Shellharbour (35) - Port Kembla (48) - Wollongong (56) (b) - Corrimal
 
64 kms 480 m climbed
There is some train travel on this section of the trip.  There is a railway station at Bomaderry, just over the river from Nowra or you can can access the CityRail timetables via the Links page.

The road to Gerringong has a variable road shoulder and can have a high volume of fast traffic.  There were some sections where I felt uncomfortable riding.  There is only really Gerroa before Gerringong unless you want to turn off this road to some of the villages along the way.  There is a short steep climb without a road shoulder into Gerroa.  After that, there is a cycleway on the western side of the road into Gerringong - a nice place to stop and have breakfast and coffee before catching the train on the next part of the journey.  The local (Nowra) cycling group recommend the train between Gerringong and Kiama as the Princes Highway is apparently quite unsafe for cyclists.

From Dunmore Station, the road is busy with traffic and has a variable shoulder.  It is not until you get onto the northern side of Shellharbour that there are off road cycleways on either the eastern or western side of the road.  They tend to disappear around Kemblawarra, so it becomes a case of mix it with the traffic until you reach the T intersection at Port Kembla North where you cross over the road onto the northern side to take an off road cycleway all of the way through to Corrimal.

Corrimal Beach Tourist Park is on the cycleway at Lakes Pde and not far from the main part of Corrimal.  It has a camp kitchen.


Day 20 - Corrimal - Thirroul (9) - train to Mt Colah - Pie in the Sky (24) - Hawkesbury River (31) - train to Woy Woy - Gosford (42) - Narara (45) - Ourimbah (51) - Chittaway Bay (58) - Long Jetty (67) - The Entrance (71) - The North Entrance
 
74 kms 840 m climbed
The train trip into Sydney Central station takes about 1 hour 20 minutes.  I have always ridden to Hawkesbury River from Hornsby, but after this trip, I would recommend catching a train from Central to a station north of Hornsby, such as Mt Colah, Mt Kuring-Gai or Berowra.  You can access the CityRail timetables via the Links page.  Services to these stations are not as frequent as those to Hornsby, but the road between Hornsby and Mt Colah is busy and not good for bikes.

The old Pacific Highway is popular with motorcyclists on weekends, and the road is generally OK for bikes having a usable road shoulder.  The Pie in the Sky is a great place to stop for a coffee and something to eat before the winding descent to Brooklyn and to the station at Hawkesbury River.  The steps to access the platform there are steep and require some care to negotiate both the ascent and descent.

The short train trip to Woy Woy will allow you to join the off road cycleway around Brisbane Water.  It starts on the eastern side of the road just near the wharf to the north of the shops.  This will take you along mostly foreshore until West Gosford near the Servicemen's Club.  At Ourimbah, take care at the roundabout to cross over the railway towards Chittaway Bay.  The road shoulder in this road is variable and it is a busy road with fast traffic.  At the major roundabout at Chittaway Bay, turn left to pick up the off road cycleway at the bus stop just before the bridge, and pass under the bridge and head north towards the Lake.  You will be able to ride mostly off road around the lake foreshore until The Entrance.

I camped at Two Shores Holiday Village at North Entrance - about 3kms north of The Entrance.  If you intend to do the same, do your shopping at The Entrance before making your way across the bridge and off road cycleway to the campsite.  The park had an excellent kitchen with all of the usual facilities.


Day 21 - The North Entrance - Budgewoi (12) - Elizabeth Bay (16) - The Big Prawn (22) - Swansea (34) - Belmont (40)  (b)- Redhead (47) -  Adamstown (58) (b) - Newcastle (b)
 
65 kms 520 m climbed
The route through to the Pacific Highway at Lake Munmorah is along busy roads, but usually the shoulder is OK.  The road shoulder for the Pacific Highway from then on is good.

On the route map, I have suggested that a couple of kilometres south of Swansea take the turn towards Murray's Beach and then take the next turn right through the back streets of Swansea to avoid a major roundabout and the town traffic.  Ride underneath the bridge and join the off road cycleway through to the Pelican turnoff. 

As you climb the hill into Belmont, take the turn to the left that wraps around the Gunyah Hotel.  Then, after a short distance take a right turn into Gen St, crossing the Pacific Highway at the traffic lights.  This short descent will take you to the start of the  Fernleigh Track.  (The route can be easily seen on map attached to the 30K around Newcastle Route.)  This off road former rail line will take you through to Adamstown Railway Station (87 kms).  At the railway gates, turn right into Glebe Rd, and then after a few hundred metres left into Teralba Rd.  After about 1 km turn right into Melville Rd and follow the bicycle signs painted on the road marking "Fernleigh Track / Coastline Cycleway".  This will bring you into the major part of the city of Newcastle.  From there, you can extend your trip by linking up with some of the other routes included on this site, or you can head home. 

There are all types of accommodation in Newcastle, however, if you wish to camp, it is necessary to catch the ferry to Stockton to the closest caravan park to the city at Stockton Beach.


Getting Home

 
Links to the various airlines will enable you to arrange your flight details or CityRail services.
 

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