Darrell Stone

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Bicycle Touring in Eastern Australia

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South Eastern Tasmania

Updated 17/06/2012

 

 

We did this ride in January 1994 with our two sons when they were 16 and 11, with the four of us riding two tandems.  We stayed mostly in YHA's and pubs or motels.  Since then, all of the YHA's where we stayed have been closed.  We travelled light, with only one pannier each to carry our gear, including sleeping bags.  We found the best way to minimise any whinging or friction between the boys was to throw food at them regularly, and swap who they rode with.

We did short days as a concession to our fitness, the presence of the boys (who could have handled longer days) and the opportunity to see more of the sights.  The duration of this trip could be shortened without too many problems if time is an issue.

The roads were a mix of gravel and bitumen.  The weather was variable, and we experienced four seasons in one day on several occasions.  Due to the hole in the ozone layer, the sun can be quite intense in Tasmania.  It is wise to use sun cream liberally to prevent any problems.

Climate

The following climate statistics are for the weather station at Oatlands.  For more information on this location, including wind roses, go to "Climate Statistics for Australian Locations" on the Links page.  You can also obtain similar details from other locations enroute from that site.

  Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Av Max Temp oC 22 22 19 16 13 10 9 11 13 15 18 20
Av Min Temp oC 9 9 8 6 3 2 1 2 3 5 6 8
Av Rain mm 44 39 40 47 43 47 43 45 42 54 51 55
Av days of rain ≥ 1 mm 5 4 5 6 6 7 8 8 7 8 7 6


Itinerary
Towns listed below that have distances marked ( ) are those where food/drink is expected/known and those marked [ ] are points of interest


To the start
 

We flew from Sydney, arriving mid afternoon at Hobart.  Check the flight times on the various Links.


Day 1 - Hobart Airport - Sorell (11) - Dodges Ferry (23) - Dunalley
 
42 kms 540 m climbed

It took a while for me to assemble the two bikes to get us on the road.  The road to Dodges Ferry was easy going bitumen, and I would suggest that, if necessary, camp at Dodges Ferry.  It has a variety of accommodation as well as a supermarket.  The road from there to Dunalley was good gravel.  The motel at Dunalley where we stayed does not appear to be open now.  Dunalley had a pub and a store.  It is worth seeing the Denison Canal that provides an access for boats that avoids the need for sailing around Port Arthur.


Day 2 - Dunalley - Murdunna (9) - Eaglehawk Neck (19) - Taranna (27) - Port Arthur
 
39 kms 750 m climbed

This was a day of sightseeing opportunities.  At 16kms, take the left turn to see the Tessellated Pavement just before Eaglehawk Neck.  There were a few interesting historic sites at Eaglehawk Neck, as well as some good food.  After there, take another left turn to see the Tasman Blowhole, Tasman Arch and Devil's kitchen.  At Taranna, the Tasmanian Devil Centre had some interesting displays.

There was a variety of accommodation available at Port Arthur, including a caravan park.  There is also a general store.  We spent a day at the historic site, and out on a boat to see the Isle of the Dead.  I had my lips badly burnt when we went there because we went equipped for rain.  The day cleared while we were on the boat and I had no sun cream nor a hat.  The scabby blistered lips were unpleasant and a problem for the rest of our trip.


Day 3 - Port Arthur - Taranna (12) - Eaglehawk Neck (20) - Murdunna (30) - Dunalley
 
41 kms 780 m climbed

The return trip to Dunalley provides the opportunity to visit the sites that were not done on the way to Port Arthur.  When we were at the YHA we had considered riding down to the Remarkable Cave, 5kms to the south, but others informed us that it was not terribly remarkable.  At Eaglehawk Neck take a right turn onto Pirates Bay Drive (past the pub) for a longer, but more gradual climb to the top of the range.


Day 4 - Dunalley - Copping (9) - Sandspit Forest Reserve - Rheban - Orford (48) - Triabunna
 
58 kms 1,410 m climbed

This day proved to be the toughest of our trip.  The road from Copping to Orford was gravel.  With the gravel surface, we were unable to take advantage of the downhills on the tandems.  The continual ups and downs drained us all.  After 26kms to the last peak in the Sandspit Forest Reserve, our average speed was less than 9kph.

I have been advised that as of April 2010 Dunalley to Orford has been closed due to a bridge being washed out on the Wielangta Forest Drive.  It would be wise the check on the status of the bridge before attempting the route that I have mentioned above.

Orford was a town with supermarket and a variety of accommodation.  Triabunna is similar and has a caravan park.  Boat trips across to Maria Island can be arranged from Triabunna.


Day 5 - Triabunna - Little Swanport - Swansea
 
51 kms 620 m climbed

The road to the convict built Spiky Bridge, a few kilometres before Swansea, travels through a variety of countryside, including some coastal areas.  The Spiky Bridge was built around 1843.  In 2006, we met a YHA hostel manager in a trip to the UK who had visited the bridge.  She couldn't see what all of the excitement was about because all of the houses that she had lived in were older than the bridge!

Swansea has a supermarket and a variety of accommodation, including a caravan park.  In my visit there in 2007, I found it necessary to buy water as the local water was vile.  This may have been due to the town being in the midst of a drought.

For the next day's ride, it is necessary to arrange passage from Port Bagot to Swanwick with the "Ferryman", who is well known in the area for taking cyclists across the inlet in his tinnies.  His phone number is (03) 6257-0239.  I found it best to call a few days in advance.


Day 6 - Swansea - Point Bagot - Bicheno
 
53 kms 240 m climbed

If time permits, it is worthwhile riding from Swanwick to Coles Bay and perhaps spending a day or two there exploring the Freycinet Peninsula.  The ride to Bicheno was along a quiet road from Coles Bay.  It was so quiet, that we had echidnas roll up in the middle of the road to protect themselves when they heard our tyres on the road.

Bicheno is a fishing port with a variety of accommodation and a supermarket.  The Bicheno East Coast Holiday Park is at 4 Champ St -  only 300m W of PO and close by everything.


Day 7 - Bicheno - Elephant Pass - St Marys
 
45 kms 880 m climbed

Our ride to the turn to Elephant Pass was made hard by a strong headwind.  We climbed the pass in a series of walks and rides until we arrived at the famous Pancake Factory at the top of the climb.  There we refuelled several times with some great pancakes before travelling on to St Marys.

St Marys is a larger town with most facilities, except that it does not have a caravan park.  The YHA that we stayed at there was on a farm, and it was a wonderful experience for our boys playing with some of the animals.  Unfortunately it is no more!


Day 8 - St Marys - Fingal (21) - Fawlty Towers
 
36 kms 270 m climbed

The ride to Fingal was an easy trip.  It was necessary to get food there, as there was none at the Fawlty Towers camp on the Rostrevor sheep station near Ormley.  The camp had a number of cabins that had previously been miners huts.  It was possible to also camp there.


Day 9 - Fawlty Towers - Avoca (12) - Conara (37) - Campbell Town
 
51 kms 430 m climbed

The road to Campbell Town was easy riding with little traffic.  Campbell Town is an historic town and worth spending some time walking around its streets.  There is no caravan park there, but there are a number of sites that are used by the motorhome set.  There are toilets but no showers.  The Campbell Town Recreation Ground is at the northern end of town beside the swimming pool, and the Campbell Town Lions Park is at the Esplanade on the southern side of town beside the river.  Another option is to ride on to the caravan park at Ross.


Day 10 - Campbell Town - Ross (11) - Oatlands
 
48 kms 570 m climbed

We found Ross to be enchanting.  Its historical buildings were impressive.  We regretted not being able to spend more time there.

Oatlands is an historic flour milling town.  The mill had been wind powered and it and some of its buildings were still standing.  It was fascinating seeing how people lived and worked there in those early days.  We took a guided walking tour around the town at night.  Our only lights were those that the early settlers used - candles in an enclosed glass lamp.  It helped our kids to understand how much better off they were than those in the 1800's.

Oatlands has a variety of accommodation, but no caravan park.  The grey nomads use the Oatlands Rest Area near Callington Mill, Lakeside.  It has toilets, but no showers.


Day 11 - Oatlands - Colebrook  (29) - Campania (47) - Richmond
 
57 kms 510 m climbed

This day's ride was made interesting by us having drag races along the flats with the tandems - a bit like truck racing!  Richmond is another historic town with its gaol as well as the other buildings in the town.

Richmond has a range of accommodation and a caravan park as well as all of the facilities of a large suburb of the city.


Day 12 - Richmond - Cambridge (13) - Bellerive
 
26 kms 340 m climbed

Richmond seemed to be a dormitory suburb for Hobart.  We left early in the day, which probably proved to be unwise, as we had all of the maniacal peak hour traffic tearing along narrow roads on the way into the city.  There were no road shoulders, and we were forced into the gravel on the roadside a few times.  Perhaps the road has been improved in the intervening period!

We rode to Bellerive to use as a base for our next few days exploring south of Hobart in a hire car.


Day 13 - Bellerive - Hobart Airport
 
15 kms 220 m climbed

We took Cambridge Road most of the way to the airport.  We had been told that there was less traffic on it than the Tasman Highway, and that was the case.


Getting home

 

After packing the bikes, we caught our flight back to Sydney.  Refer to Links for the timetables.

 

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